Thursday, February 19, 2015

More about South Africa's Marvellous Mohair





Mohair - as the name suggests actually is hair - hair off the back of a specialist breed Angora goat, sheared twice a year to make a silky yarn that can be fashioned into anything from coats to cardigans to shawls and throws. Most confuse Mohair with Angora wool - which is entirely different. Angora wool is the fur off Angora rabbits, not goats. Mohair is known for its silky sheen and softness and was often referred to as the 'diamond yarn' for its scarcity and luxurious richness.

But what I didn't know was South Africa is the biggest exporter and industry for the finest Mohair off Angora goats. My husband on a recent business trip to Cape Town brought back the most beautiful mohair throw and that ignited my interest and curiosity - after all Angora is in Turkey, miles and oceans apart from the southern tip of South Africa.

It all started in 1838 with the Sultan's mistake.

But going even further back, Mohair has been used to keep bodies warm since biblical times but became modestly popular in the 15th century, with the expanding Ottoman Empire as trade grew, this silky, creamy white, luxurious Mohair cloth from Angora found its way to European courts -  initially as gifts for kings and high ranking aristocrats, but later on sought after-ed by  all affluent gentry in Europe. They had never seen or worn anything like it, were amazed at its lightness and silky-ness and as word spread and dyers started experimenting and dying Mohair in all rich colours, from risque red to dazzling yellow, it's popularity grew and more and more mohair was exported out of Angora. Some budding entrepreneurs of the time managed to coax farmers to sell them Angora sheep and started their own farms in Europe cashing in on the demand.


It was around this time that alarmed at losing their heritage and trade, the Sultan placed a strict embargo on any exports of Angora goats or free trade of mohair. Some finished products made of mohair were still exported, but now interest in obtaining Angora goats grew more intense with the placement of embargo. Several failed attempts were made to smuggle Angora sheep (can you imagine the perils and intrigue surrounding that time, and all over goats!) and finally some daring traders managed to smuggle Angora goats to Spain and France in the late 16th century but the Sultan's embargo overall held well till 1838.

In 1838, the Sultan graciously sent 12 Angora ram and 1 female Angora goat to port Elizabeth as a gift. The rams were neutered and rendered infertile before shipping as the Sultan was adamant on saving his Empire's Mohair supremacy and trade. What he didn't know was the female goat sent on board was pregnant and gave birth to a kid ram enroute to South Africa on the ship - and there! one pregnant ewe dashed all of  Sultan's ingenious plans for keeping hold of Mohair trade.  Today, South Africa are the biggest exporters of Mohair and the finest Mohair proudly carries the South African tag!






The Offended

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